Travels with Husband

A Disney-fied ‘Dream’ Family Vacay

Used to be uncool to take a cruise. Time passed, we aged, enjoyed touring, unpacking just once, having meals catered, beds made and head cleaned a couple of times a day. It’s not just for a sea of grandparents in sensible shoes anymore. It often means luxe adventure to exotic locales while riding the high seas.

Husband and I have taken several and enjoyed most of them. We favour one line over others. They all snag one with frequent-sailor programs, goodies and deals. More time passed, kids/ step-kids married and five wonderful grandkids came along. A few years back, we mulled an extra special family trip. All agreed we would wait till the youngest grandchild was old enough for memories to stick. Had to be in the summer so school was not a factor and parents could get away for a stretch of time. Did not want to celebrate a special occasion. It had to be just for the kidlets and for all of us to celebrate life together.

For many families, a special vacation with kids equals a visit to a Disney location of some sort. Well-loved characters and time-proven entertainment are obvious major draws. We looked at their cruises. Launch of a brand new vessel in January 2011, the Dream, hooked us. Turns out Disney cruises are darned popular and ‘inaugural’ ones more so. We were lucky to nab 3 staterooms on this ship for a 4-day Bahamian voyage from Port Canaveral, Florida in mid-August.

Arrangements to gather eleven of us from varied points to embarkation destination took husband/ Grandpa darned near 4 years! Phew, everyone made it to Cocoa Beach, a fun little beach resort of ‘I Dream of Jeanie’ fame near Port Canaveral. Disney has its own terminal, parking garage and check-in hall at the port. Good idea to arrive early on embarkation day if covered parking is desired. Mickey Mouse was around for snaps with the young ones. Pretty exciting, a brand new, kid-focussed vessel to accommodate up to 4,000 passengers, including about 1,500 kids, and 1,500 staff. Designed and artfully decorated with a nod to majestic fabled ocean voyages but fitted with the most modern available technology.

Our cabins were lovely, all perfect for parents plus kids, with swing-out and drop-down bunk beds. More storage than I’ve seen on other ships. Even a little round bathtub which is handy for bathing little ones. Numerous cabins had external verandahs as this feature is now more popular and prevalent on newer vessels. There is an extensive spa with thermal ‘Rainforest’ treatment spaces and a well-equipped workout area. This being Disney, there is a beautiful movie theatre with steady film fare, some very current. Another charming feature was art that ‘moved’. When examined for a while, characters in some ‘paintings’ became active. Daily entertainment was spectacular, from stage shows to fireworks at sea to on-deck dance parties.

We were titillated at the prospect of riding the ‘Aquaduck’, first ever shipboard water coaster at sea. All it promised, not too scary, nor too benign. An inflatable raft for up to two riders propelled along a moving stream of water up and down through a tube, sometimes clear so you could see yourself yaw out over open sea. This was hugely popular and fun!

Young passengers of all ages can and are encouraged to visit activity halls designed just for them. Toddlers to teens all have their own zones. Each kid is fitted with a GPS wristband, so the ship essentially ‘knows’ where kids are at all times. These are used as check-in-and-out gizmos. Kids engage in tons of play, fun and even meals, giving parents a little peaceful playtime of their own. Turned out, most kids wanted to stay in their zones long past closing time, usually midnight! It was not just families with kids on board. We met a honeymooning couple who had encountered other young-at-hearts in the same boat.

There are tons of dining options to which one is rotated nightly. Your service staff travel with you to each. Two adults-only speciality restos require special mention. Palo is a touch more casual of the two. It offers sumptuous gourmet Italian Cuisine. Remy, named for the cutest little mouse who dreamt of being a chef in the animated film ‘Ratatouille’, offers French cuisine and wines to make a jaded gourmand swoon. Cheese course, sweets, oh my! Food and beverage service is attentive all over the ship.

We had two bookend days at sea, middle ones in Nassau and at Disney’s exclusive isle, Castaway Cay. In Nassau, the kids elected to play, play, play in the Oceaneer’s Club and us grownups walked about ashore. Weather was a steamy 100 degrees plus with humidity. At fantabulous Castaway Cay, most passengers disembark to frolic on the island. If you are charmed enough to snag one of 20 cabanas here, do! In the sun and heat, your cabana is a welcome oasis stocked with cool drinks, snacks, towels and cold towels for the head, a hammock, freshwater outdoor shower and a private beach. The island offers tons of fun. A water slide, splash park, bikes, watercraft, snorkelling with underwater Mickey and pals, plus a couple of casual BBQ cafes.

We made time for some grown-up touring on our own, before and after the cruise. Kennedy Space Center offered a fascinating display of real space shuttles, rockets, landing modules and vehicles. We took in a stunning IMAX 3-D movie about the trials, tribulations and rewards of the Hubble space telescope. We even spied the Cape Canaveral launchsite from a launch viewing gantry. After the cruise, at Epcot Center, we took in two spectacular ‘rides’. A simulated rocket launch and Mars landing at the Mission: Space pavilion and a heart-pumping thrill ride at GM’s Test Track pavilion. Would return to those again!

Later we revisited good pals in Lakeland, FLA and what husband and I consider to be a bit of a Mecca for us Frank Lloyd Wright groupies. Florida Southern College campus is the largest single collection of FLW-designed buildings in one location, a project he named ‘Child of the Sun’. There are 12 structures now and plans are afoot to complete the original intended 18. This campus has recently been named America’s ‘most beautiful campus’ by the prestigious Princeton Review’s 2012 edition. Too, Architectural Digest has listed it among its ‘Ten College Campuses with the Best Architecture’.

It was interesting and edifying to re-examine these buildings. Many are in a constant state of repair. Mr. Wright was truly a visionary. But here in Lakeland is plenty of evidence again that esthetics won over function. Covered esplanade walkways are extra-low, scaled to the architect’s own modest height, not good for taller folks or basketball players. The below grade offices in the science building were apparently subject to regular leaks and flooding before a dehumidification system was installed on the roof. The Water Dome fountain is a gorgeous concept but design did not allow for strong, prevalent Florida breezes that mess with water flow. Summer students were enlisted for building construction and engravings are everywhere – ‘summer class 1944’, for example. We noted whimsical glass squares embedded in some concrete blocks, a nod to gem-studded Mughal buildings in India. We love walking about, as it were, inside the mad genius brain of Frank Lloyd Wright.

Some things I have learned:

 Select cruise timing to avoid hurricanes the likes of recent Irene, Katia and Lee.

 Kids scream, cry, splash. They are being kids. Get some you-time at an adults-only pool, spa or resto on board.

 As a classmate used to say, “keep your eyes on your fries”. Some folks believe ‘what’s mine is mine and what’s yours is mine’. Stuff can just ‘walk away’.

 Carry a supply of quarters when driving. Never know when an un-manned toll both might pop up. In the worst case scenario, an auto rental company can ding you a hefty amount.

 Familiarize with logical needs before setting off in rental wheels. Example, a deluge is the wrong time to search for emergency flashers.

Our getaway included something for everyone. The first ever cruise for most of our gang and a unique kind for the experienced ones. All did our own thing from time to time but gathered daily for family meals and exceptional Disney entertainment. Kids and grandkids supplemented their vacation with amusement parks, road trips and beaches.

Really happy memories for everyone. It was a near perfect family vacation and will be tough to duplicate, let alone top. This time together with Grands, kids and grandkids was absolutely precious and will be cherished for a long time. We live in interesting times so gather close and spoil loved ones while you can!

Travel, in general, can be many things, according to one’s desires, physical & economic limits. From a quiet all-inclusive resort on a warm island to a grueling schedule of sightseeing in an exotic faraway land. India falls firmly into the latter category. The world is intrigued by India’s successes these days – impressive economic growth to its evident success as a fully functioning democracy, even in hotbed Asia. There is the fragrant cuisine, colorful garb, THE movie. To me, it is the land of my birth, where I have returned just a few times since leaving at age 12.

To be together for New Year’s Eve has been crucial for several of us pals. December 31, 2009 would be our 14th together, no point breaking the pattern. Anything to stave off the blues of marking another too-fast-past year! We have been to interesting places every couple of years, – a safari in Kenya, Sparta, Cappadoccia, Antarctica… Though planning for India began almost 3 years ago, discussion with some pals began at least 20 years before that. The task of putting together an adventurous while safe itinerary seemed insurmountable. However, we all put our money where our mouth is & booked the fabled Palace on Wheels train through the desert province of Rajasthan. Husband & I did the same trip over New Year’s Eve 1987/88; we would find much changed, all exciting.

Travel points gathered, cash saved, we flew on new-ish Jet Airways who use Brussels as interim hub. For such a long journey & time changes it is real nice to have lay-flat seats, legroom, attentive service & Bulgari (!) goodie kit. Heck, even a set of nice soft knit jammies was offered & accepted. Jet is just one example of India’s influence on the international biz scene. Old pals from Toronto who were joining us coincidentally occupied the two seats right behind us. As we disembarked from the plane in Delhi after about 20 hours in transit, I said aloud, “get ready for a full-out assault on ALL your senses”. Indira Gandhi Airport was draped in winter fog. We would later discover this would be the socked-in weather pattern for Delhi for the next couple of weeks.

We checked into the well-appointed ITC Maurya Hotel located in Delhi’s serene Diplomatic Enclave, with numerous embassies & consulates as neighbors. It is an elegant hotel with attentive service but there is no ‘neighborhood’. One cannot walk off the grounds to explore. Security at the hotel was tight – metal detectors, vehicles checked inside, out, under, all bags screened or hand checked. Security tight, apparently always, as this hotel is used by visiting pols & magnates. A little more than usual as Delhi would soon host a huge conference for ex-pat investors & entrepreneurs.

All 17 of us were to stay there, but made our own arrangements & trickled in on different days. Some after side trips to the UK, China, Sri Lanka, Maldives; Christmas plans the cause of other staggered arrivals. We were eight Canadians & nine Americans. The group ranged in age from 14 to 70, hailing from Los Angeles to Boston, to in & around Toronto. Our oldest friends were with us. We included two teenagers, true & might-as-well-be-family groups & a couple of couples who had never met bunch before except by group e-mail.

I was in touch with the hotel concierge for some months to arrange dining & tours in Delhi. We had reserved for dinner at the hotel’s incredible restaurant, Bukhara. This is regularly on the world’s top restaurant lists & a Delhi fave of international glitterati. A great opportunity, not to be missed. We were joined by a fave aunt & uncle & my Mom, who was traveling in India for special family events & a month-long yoga-training course. What a woman! The restaurant is always fully booked & raucous, dinner was awesome – ‘Indian frontier’ tandoori specialties, lots of kebabs, nans & tasty dals, excellent wine. Much yakky conversation & excitement about our upcoming time in India.

A private club floor was usually a serene spot for breakfast or a pre-dinner cocktail. Now, the place was abuzz owing to the ex-pat business conference. I was in heaven as I had masala dosa or iddly for breakfast, husband was happy to have non-Indian for at least one meal a day. Here, our group was graciously accommodated for pre-dinner cocktails with delish nibbles. Room service food was appetizing & fairly priced. French press coffee was served at the hotel even though instant coffee is still in wide use in India. Fun to try spiced, sweet Indian chai anyway.

When husband & I took the palace on Wheels 22 years ago, it was the original narrow-gauge train with impressive shiny steam engine & original cars built for Maharajas, dating from the 1920s to the ’50s. Back then, the train stopped every evening, armed security protected us, we disembarked to go to the bar car, stopped later, walked to the dining car, etc. The current train has since been updated to wider gauge; all sleeping cabins have en-suite bathrooms. Still a bit cramped as it is a train after all, but with wonderful regal touches. Each car has four sleeping compartments & a salon with comfy seating for socializing, reading etc. We had two wonderful attendants per car to see to all our needs. This time, we were able to walk between cars while the train was underway. A limited 102 passengers were on board, why we booked early. Special departures dates fill up fast. Plus the running season is short, just from November through February. The Thar Desert can be unbearably hot at other times.

We boarded the Palace on Wheels on Dec. 30. Much of the itinerary was the same for us as before but with new twists. Some towns felt the same; others have become much more touristy. Newfound wealth among the huge Indian middle class has permitted many more to tour their own country. We had lots more tours, off-train dining & entertainment events than before. We visited numerous magical palaces, forts, temples, mausoleums, a few museums & an important tiger sanctuary.

The train trip is a bit pricey but all meals & sightseeing are included. Food on board was quite good. Chefs regularly prepared an Indian menu as well as a continental one daily. Extra-spicy Indian was available for hardier souls. White glove service for all meals taken on the train. Several of us would await the ‘Indian dishes’ – after all, the food was a big reason we were in India! Some breakfasts were intimately taken in our salons, attentively served by our attendants. Al fresco breakfast & dinner buffets were occasionally enjoyed on the grounds of glorious, remote hotel resorts, often accompanied with local music & dance programs. The food was so good, good thing we had rigorous walking tours every day.

The train bar is well stocked with international wines, champagne & a full slate of beers & spirits. India is producing very good wine (Sula) & not too bad champagne that we tried ( Madame de Pompadour!). And Kingfisher beer has long been internationally known. Bar prices are pretty well the same as anywhere else in the world. The bar car was a fun spot to meet old & new pals nightly.

Here are the cities we visited – grab an atlas to follow through the northwestern province of Rajasthan:

Jaipur – called the pink city as many structures are built with pink sandstone. Home of the famous Hawa Mahal & Jantar Mantar, an ancient, still accurate observatory. The elegant City Palace is partially occupied by the royal family to this day. The renowned beauty, the Queen Mother Gayatri Devi has recently passed away but her jet-setting son, ‘Bubbles’ still resides in the palace. He is now quite advanced in years. We saw him walking about with a small entourage. Later, we all rode elephants up a steep hill to the Amber fort for touring & a nice lunch.
New Year’s Eve! Emboldened by fine French champagne, we discoed & bhangra-ed while the train chugged along. Just before midnight, we disembarked & were treated to lots of lovely fireworks set off by train staff. It was a fantastic way to welcome the New Year surrounded by old friends & new.

Udaipur – called the white city as buildings are painted brilliant white; has the Lake Palace (middle of a lake!) Where a James Bond movie was partly filmed (Octopussy, ‘83); now a Taj Group luxury hotel. A very full day of sightseeing & shopping for pashminas, miniature paintings.

Jodhpur – called the blue city, as many houses are painted blue to cool them in the heat of summer. Stunning, well renovated Mehrangarh Fort & Umaid Bhawan were highlights.

Jaisalmer – called the golden city, just amazing, built out of golden sandstone. Much more touristy than before. The city partially occupies an ancient hilltop fort built with dry construction, i.e., no mortar. Apparently, the presence of tourists will cause the fort walls to eventually crumble from excess moisture. The fort is home to several delicately carved building facades (havelis) & ancient Jain temples. What a shame it will be for this place to fall apart.

Rode a camel to the desert dunes. Not a comfortable or pleasant ride, but still a thrill. Hundreds of folks walk way out to the dunes just to watch the sunset. We were quite near the Pakistan border at this point. Lots of military presence in & around town & at the train station underscored just where we were! Excellent dinner outdoors, more fireworks.

Ranthambore (Sawai Madhopur) & Chittorgarh – Former is the site of a tiger sanctuary; a cool early-morning safari experience. We viewed spotted deer, wild boars, peacocks, monkeys but no big striped felines. Did photograph what appeared to be a tiger paw print.

Chittorgarh is a historic site with fantastic temples & structures; impressive carved Victory Tower. A well-composed sound & light show with haunting full moon overhead. Husband & Me at Taj Mahal

Agra – site of the Taj Mahal, which still takes my breath away even though I have seen it several times. The structure is a mausoleum housing the tombs of Mumtaz Mahal & her devoted Mughal emperor husband, Shah Jahan, who built it in her honour. It is a magical place, all in white marble & studded with semi-precious stones. The Taj has thankfully been saved from the ravages of destructive air pollution through actions of environmentalists. Only electric vehicles are allowed near the Taj. The Taj Mahal is on everyone’s bucket list. Our travel companions were exhilarated by the sight. Visited the impressive Agra Fort in the afternoon. In the evening, treated to a song-&-dance cultural program about romantic history associated with the Taj.

After 7 days on board the train, we returned to Delhi & checked back in to the Maurya Hotel. I had pre-arranged two half-day tours & a bit of shopping for the bunch. This went fairly well though traffic in Delhi can be nasty, worsened by road construction related to a LRT/ subway/ metro system. The car is unfortunately king, exacerbated by a burgeoning middle class & new wealth. Few drivers obey rules of the road but authorities are working on it. Still, painted lines & stoplights appear futile. Saw no accidents but there are dings on almost every vehicle! We saw no holy cows though they are sure to roam smaller neighborhoods.

We saw what we could with time, fog & traffic limitations. Impressive Humayun’s Tomb, Ba’hai Lotus Temple & the Birla Temple from my childhood. India Gate & Parliament Buildings were a bit restricted to us due to impending January 26 Republic Day Parade preparations. Metal barriers were being erected to contain expected crowds & security personnel were everywhere. This annual event is a show of military might, a message aimed at potentially hostile neighbours. We found that many monuments have been cleaned up & show nicely. Delhi is feverishly prepping to host the Commonwealth games in October 2010. Air pollution is much less than before. Many public transit vehicles are new or converted to compressed natural gas. Old buses are being replaced & drivers trained in public relations.

Memories are still zinging around in our heads. It was a great trip, a terrific opportunity to intimately connect with old pals, better know newer ones & reconnect with family. All went really well, considering where we were, what could have happened. Many of us had long delays in transit on the way home, due to heavy Delhi winter fog & snowstorms in Europe. However, we were safe, no ‘trouble’ anywhere we visited, we tipped well as ‘everybody’s gotta eat’ & just three of us experienced mild ‘Delhi-belly’.

For, me this was a spiritual journey. With husband & a great bunch of pals along, it was both familiar & enigmatic. ‘Incredible India’, to be sure, seen through the eyes of others. What a fine way to welcome 2010!

Canadians regularly travel to & work in Cuba, not being subjected to an embargo. Our two countries have co-operated on many construction & mining projects. Most Canadian tourists travel directly to the beaches, just passing through Havana’s Jose Marti airport or taking a single-day bus trip into the city.

My husband & I wanted to see only Havana before American travel restrictions are either further loosened or lifted. Wanted to see the old city architecture, old American cars, feel the music! The urgent drumbeat of demand to open up borders between America & Cuba is getting louder, adding to our urgency.

Though arrangements are simpler for us, we still used a Cuba-specialist travel agency to book accommodation, advisable during the November high season. Canadians & Europeans flood in now as the weather is perfect – high 20s Celsius & the traditional hurricane season has passed. Airfare & airport transfers were booked, together with a fantastic junior suite at the NH Hotel Parque Central in the very heart of historic, old Havana & we were set…
After a comfy 3.5 hour trip direct from Toronto, we found our taxi van with minor glitches & we soon had our first Havana ‘experiences’. The van failed to start but a group of willing young fellows provided a push & we were off. Had a minor flutter when this group of fellows descended upon the van, but they were just curious.

Pedestrians lined the highway seeking rides from strangers in & out of Havana. Old American cars were everywhere, mostly from the 50s. Most common were ‘57 or ‘58 Chevys, specifically Belairs, as I was expertly informed. Husband spied a way older unit he said was from the 30s! Also plenty of Ladas, a few VWs, Fiats, fewer Toyotas. The oldest cars are all pre-revolution (January 1959); there are zero late model American autos.
Luckily we made it into Old Havana without stalling. The view from our arched windows was perfect – the verdant central park, the Capitol building, the national theatre, gorgeous building facades, many streets radiating away. The hotel’s rooftop pool & bar area would provide a welcome refreshing break from the city heat & a nice place for an intimate al fresco supper. As we had just 3 nights in Havana, Saturday through Monday inclusive, we focused on the heart of the old city.

We were armed with plenty of on-line research & good advice from pals, one of whom is a young ex-pat Cuban. We got our heads around the Convertible Cuban Peso & that we had little hope of obtaining a fair exchange rate. We knew the food was to be so-so & the city safe. Following a very courteous check-in at the hotel, we quickly booked the best tickets for the Tropicana floor show extravaganza for Sunday night, as Monday nights are dark. We easily located a nearby ‘tienda’ for bottled water & the local light beer, Cristal. Water in the better hotels is purified, so mojito ice is OK in those.

One can walk to many places of interest form The Hotel Parque Central. The Ramblas-like majestic Prado ambles towards the bay & famed 7-kilometre seaside promenade, the Malecon. This sure must have been really something in its heyday. Bronze lion statues, majestic urban facades, now rubbly & crumbly, gorgeous street lamps, some missing glass panes, most missing bulbs. The waterfront is beautiful with the old castle, lighthouse & fort as a backdrop. The Havana marathon was in process on Sunday – sadly appeared to be a paltry few participants for whom a large span of the Avenida Malecon was closed off.

Heading west along the Malecon, we again saw amazing architecture, some under reno. This was & again will be, a glorious seaside neighborhood. At this point, it is just extra-interesting to see two & multi-story edifices, many built a century ago, some mimicking European styles, others art-deco – Paris, Madrid, Miami? Sad to see long term neglect evidenced by scaffolding grown over with weedy vines & boarded windows, squatters here & there. A long walk took us to the imposing art deco Hotel Nacional de Cuba, built in 1930, where innumerable famous people hung out. The murals & artifacts in the Bar Vista al Golfo, a.k.a the Bar de Fama indicated this included Sinatra, Ava Gardner, Sir Alexander Fleming among many others.

Twin pedestrian streets Obispo & O’Reilly (you betcha, that’s the name!) provide plenty of stimulating sights, sounds, music, mojitos & surprises. Even if one wishes to shun the tourist traps, Papa Hemingway’s haunts & other spots are de rigueur, if only for a sip. Notably the Floridita, the ‘cradle of the daiquiri’ & the Bodeguita de Medio, for a mojito & its signature-covered walls.

The Plaza de Cathedral & Plaza de Armas were full of gorgeous surprises dripping ambiance as we discovered old Havana on foot. Hemingway stayed & played at the Hotel Ambos Mundos & the Hotel Florida; both have great bars & make a decent mojito. Found Edificio Bacardi by accident when a security guard offered a view from the top for a peso apiece. This must have been a grand building before the revolution, now a bit shabby, but under reno. Short elevator ride, followed by long stair climb, perfect 360 degree views of the city & seaside – priceless.

In the Plaza de Armas, we found a winding lineup consisting of thousands, mainly women, waiting patiently to say prayers as they repeatedly circled an ancient palm tree. We later learned this was an annual celebration on November 16 at the site (El Templete) of the first mass & town council of San Cristobal de Habana, first held in 1599 – wow, 410 years ago! Take a second look at those vehicle barriers in O’Reilly – they are old cannon barrels stuck in the ancient cobble stones!

The Partagas cigar factory sits right behind the capitol building & is an eye-opening must-see. Halls full of highly skilled rollers & support workers occupy this (also crumbling) building, makes all the serious brands in one location – Cohiba, Monte Cristo, Romeo y Julieta, Bolivar – you name it. As we were informed, this is easy as the state owns it all & differences are a just matter of tobacco leaf quality & roller skill. Workers are paid little, but take home 3 top quality cigars per day, explaining the multitude of cheap-cigar vendors outside the factory. Interestingly, no authorities were about to shoo them away. Also interesting: there is a bit of Canada in each Cuban cigar – rolled leaves are moistened & held together with maple syrup! ALSO interesting, a couple of totally rusted old steam engines sit right next door to the Partagas factory (yup, behind the Capitolo!) defying any stretch of the imagination. We purchased some fresh-from-factory stogies on site for husband’s personal pleasure & gifting at what we think were pretty good prices.

The Tropicana show is located in a compound far from old Havana, requiring a long taxi ride to who-knows-where. The show is worth every peso & the distance. Its quality exceeds any costumed, musical extravaganza we have seen anywhere, including Las Vegas & Paris. The ticket price includes a quarter bottle of Havana Club rum & a cola per person, which was very good too. Our table mates were a crazy bunch. A young Japanese couple on their 60-day Latin honeymoon. Both spoke impeccable Spanish. He already an author of 2 books on the plight of Hispanic immigrant workers in Japan & New York. She a teacher of flamenco dance back home in Osaka (!!). We also met a fun trio of guys from Mexico, in Havana to research time shares, their metier in life.

The centre of old Havana is literally never quiet. One gets accustomed to the cacophony, even missing it after the trip is over. Luckily, we were spared too many offers of cheap cigars & usually ubiquitous t-shirt shops. There are plenty of reminders of the Castro brothers & socialism – Plaza de Revolucion & slightly ominous message billboards. People were mostly nice; very few accosted us or appeared surly, as we were forewarned.

Traveling to Cuba from the U.S. is a bit of challenge as one must hop over from Mexico or Canada. For Americans, currency & spending restrictions are a nightmare & the whole effort may raise eyebrows. However, we did meet the rare fearless American traveler. Glad we have seen Havana now. We have pleasant memories & snapshots of an old city which is morphing by the minute. When American restrictions ease, it will never be the same – the old amazing architecture, loads of old American cars, small bands playing live music in every bar or restaurant, Diet TuKola mixed with Havana Club, the rum of Cuba.

The socialismo-weary locals will want ‘new’ stuff!